ReWardrobe is the brainchild of Veronica Crespi, who – after graduating in Fashion Communications and Styling – began a career as a Fashion Trends Researcher. She then decided to launch her own business, combining fashion sense with awareness, knowing the items gathering dust in our wardrobes could be a great resource to rework and reuse. Crespi has her own vision about the ethical fashion: “slow wear” and “responsible style”, terms which ask us to re-evaluate perceptions of our own wardrobes.
How did you come up with the idea for ReWardrobe?
I have been working in fashion for a decade, gathering skills and an all-round knowledge of the cycles of fashion, from trend research to production and retail. I was craving a flexible role that would let me make best use of my experience whilst also working with people – so I decided to create a style consultancy. I asked myself what values I wanted to communicate through my business, and quickly realised that all that is important for me fits perfectly with the slow movement. I became more and more interested and involved, and now I define the slow approach as the core of my business. I would probably cite my Italian background in fashion as my defining trait, and my mum as my inspiration – she doesn’t care for labels. She is a ‘slow’ heroine!
The terms “slow wear” and ‘responsible style” – what do they mean for you?
It is now possible to be stylish and sustainable – the ethical fashion movement counts outstanding talent under its umbrella, and with such a variety of collections, with a bit of research, one can now dress head-to-toe in sustainable labels with the same budget they would spend for the usual High Street choices. However, real as this may feel to somebody like me, who researches ethical fashion on a daily basis, it is in fact not common knowledge, or indeed common practice, for the average consumer. My aim is not to work exclusively with clients who are already interested in ethical products, but with people who are not aware of them, or of the issues of fast fashion, and show them the beautiful and stylish sustainable alternative.
Does it relate just to the consumer?
No. It is about re-evaluating quality, craftsmanship, and traditional methods of production, and also garment or accessory care. For example, a pair of traditionally made brogues is a slow product. The owner of a pair will wear them for years, and take care of them. They may have a good cobbler to re-sole them regularly, maintain the leather and keep them going for season after season. This attitude is now so rare, and we are now accustomed to the rhythms of throwaway fashion.
How does your profession combat this?
I do not only suggest that my clients change their future shopping habits, what I tell them is to be slow in the way they manage their existing wardrobe. I recommend that they purchase quality items and take care of them. Ethical fashion brands look into the important stages of garment production and distribution, however, 50% of a garment’s environmental impact is in the energy and chemicals used to wash it and dry it. I find myself giving clients tips on natural detergents, on how to get rid of stains, and above all trying to convince them to ditch tumble drying and dry-cleaning: we don’t need either, and our clothes will look more beautiful for it (as well as not making a negative impact on the planet).
The service you offer is an all-round consultancy: what is the feedback you usually have from the people you help out or work with?
Sometimes, I get surprise and incredulity, like when I tell a lady to hand-wash her cashmere and silk, and to stop dry-cleaning everything. Other times, they love the tips – like when I suggest a travel-size steamer can be their clothes’ best friend. Mostly, they love my fresh approach to styling. I don’t only want to do fabulous makeovers like the ones you see on TV. I delve deep in the recesses of ladies’ wardrobes, and re-organise them at the core. I really give them solutions for their daily style, and their lifestyle. When I have given them information about what’s behind their clothing consumption, and get them to improve at least one or two actions in terms of wardrobe management, that’s when I know I’ve done my small bit.
How do you think the relationship we have with our clothes and garments is now changing?
We are certainly experiencing a shift in consumer awareness in terms of buying choices, however there is still a long way to go. It would be great to find ways to give the end consumer more information about the issues related to fashion production and consumption so that they could respond better to ethical brands’ messages. On the other hand, I would like to see a near future where an ethical brand is out there with the mainstream, chosen for style, not principles. Naturally this means changing some of the mechanisms in the fashion industry, and not just consumer awareness.
What are the next steps?
Something that could be done to get the attention of High Street consumers could be promoting upcycled fashion. Something that’s always been very popular with the British consumer, and particularly with the younger ones, is customising clothes. I believe they would love the idea of upcycling. Among the emerging names of sustainable fashion, many are designers who produce upcycled collections. I think these should be promoted more – if the words ‘ethical’ and ‘sustainable’ don’t quite buzz in the ears of younger fashion consumers, I am sure ‘unique’, ‘re-worked’, ‘re-styled’ would. Once they learn the inherent value of garments, how to spot their potential, and once they stop thinking that if they don’t like something they can just bin it, their attitude will be moulded for the future, for when they are more mature buyers with greater spending power.
What do you believe the role of a stylist in the industry is – how can styling help ethical fashion brands?
As a Personal Stylist, I am a direct point of contact between ethical brands and potential consumers. Buying into sustainable fashion can still be a complicated process for some. Many independent brands are not easy to find in stores – and even though there are now a lot of websites to buy online, it can still be a scattered affair from one website to the next to find everything one is looking for. By taking the time to do extensive research for clients, I put them into the position to reach products they wouldn’t know of, or probably wouldn’t make the effort to find themselves. In more general terms, as I said before I don’t only work with clients who are already aware of the issues behind fashion production and consumption. So again, I cover the role of spreading the word about sustainable fashion to a larger and often entirely new audience.
How have you marketed yourself and who are your clients?
The common trait among my clients is change. A physical change, a new job, a house move, a new relationship status…anything that will put them in the situation to have to review their wardrobe, and re-address their image. It’s a very intimate thing: clients will not only show me their clothes, they’ll also talk to me about how they feel and the reasons why they are in a transitional phase and want to embrace the change. I find they need to have met me in person first, before they invite me into their homes. This is why I network and go to different events a lot – to be able to meet as many people as possible. I write about fashion, and my business has a strong online presence – however there is nothing like word-of-mouth and personal interaction to grow my client base. And of course, I tend to keep my clients happy, so they’ll recommend me personally!
Are you working on any new projects?
I am passionate about upcycled fashion at the moment. Our eye has been trained to it for years now, looking at gorgeous pieces by brands like Junky Styling, Goodone, or From Somewhere. But I also know many of the emerging designers personally, and absolutely admire their work. The level of creativity is just outstanding – and I want to do something to promote their work more. When I work with clients and try to find solutions for them to run a more sustainable wardrobe, I often suggest that they alter or upcycle their clothes rather than just discard them. I started researching designers and labels I could commission such projects to. I am also lending my hand to various projects apart from working with individual clients, once again looking for a way to get to know designers and labels better. I have a suitcase full of clothes that don’t fit me any more, but that I am not prepared to throw away without a second thought. I’m asking a number of designers to have a rummage, choose whatever inspires them, and create something new. It all comes together in a project I have called Up-Wardrobe (from Upcycling and ReWardrobe). Otherwise I have a lot of connections with press, bloggers and the fashion industry in general. I do a lot of networking, events and talks/workshops, where I am often asked what I’m wearing , so quite a few opportunities for me to spread the word and show people (from press to clients) that they can look stylish and unique, through the work of upcycled fashion designers.
What can we expect from you in the second half of 2011?
I am very excited to say that I will be involved in the Ethical Fashion Forum Source Expo event in October. EFF Managing Director, Tamsin Lejeune, has asked me to curate the Designer Pavilion, aimed at showcasing the work of talented designers that the EFF helps promote. The exhibition area is a perfect visual tool for visitors to appreciate the level of creativity and craftsmanship they can experience during the event. Being offered the opportunity to style this section is a great honour.
